Premier Tours Stuffs the Oscars Swag Bag with Lions & Rhinos & Elephants, Oh My
March 6, 2010 at 4:41 pm | In Africa, South Africa, safaris | Leave a CommentTags: Africa, Bullock, George Clooney, James Cameron, Julian Harrison, Kruger Park, Lion Sands, Matt Damon, Meryl Streep, Morgan Freeman, Penelope Cruz, Premier Tours, Quentin Tarantino, Sabi Island, safaris, Sandra, South Africa
by José Balido
Every once in a while we like to toot the horn for members of Tripatini’s travel social network — and since it’s Academy Awards weekend, what could be more tootable than a member who’s donating a luxurious African safari experience to the likes of George Clooney, Meryl Streep, Morgan Freeman, Sandra Bullock, Matt Damon, Penelope Cruz, James Cameron, and Quentin Tarantino?

Raised in Africa, longtime author and tour operator Julian Harrison has written on Africa safaris for Tripatini, and his Philadelphia-based Premier Tours is contributing to the high-end goodies handed out Sunday night to the most acclaimed Hollywood types of 2010, in the form of a four-night stay at the five-star Lion Sands in South Africa’s Kruger National Park.
Located in a family-owned spread that’s part of Sabi Sand Game Reserve, which is right next door to Kruger Park, Lion Sands is actually split into three sleek lodges mixing the contemporary and the traditional. There’s 1933, a four-suite compound that’s the most exclusive and private of the three (above); the Ivory Lodge, with six individual villa-suites; and the 18-room River Lodge, the mainstay of the trio. Naturally, they’ve got all the über-fancy amenities a pampered celeb could want, from spas and private chefs to private plunge pools.
Normally, rates here start at 4,675* rand per person in the River Lodge to 84,850 rand** for the 1933 compound; the latter is of course where the Oscar folks will bunk. You’d think these folks could afford those kinds of price tags on their own — but such are the perks of Oscardom. Big congrats, Julian!
*at press time, US$632 /£417 / €464 / CA$652 / A$696
**US$11,475 / £7,576 / €8,425 / CA$11,825 / A$12,637
Ogling — and Surfing — Namibia’s Haunting Red Dunes
February 12, 2010 at 10:56 am | In Africa, Namibia, ecotourism | 1 CommentTags: Namib, Namib Desert, Namib-Naukluft, Namibia, Sossuvlei, Windhoek
by José Balido
Some 3 1/2 hours by road from Namibia’s tidy capital of Windhoek, out in the Namib desert of the country’s southwest, you’ll find one of the world’s more impressive natural sights and experiences: its highest (up to some 280 feet/85 meters) and oldest sand dunes. Sossusvlei, part of Africa’s biggest game park, Namib-Naukluft National Park, is punctuated by twisted camel thorn trees; you can balloon and fly over these towering reddish “star dunes,” hike them (guide recommended), and even surf down their sides (note to self: look up how to say “cowabunga!” in Nama). The best times of day to come and experience them are sunrise and sunset, when their reddish-orangy hues shift, shimmer, and glow. Don’t forget to also stop for a peek at dramatic Sesriem Canyon, some 40 miles (65 km) away. Admission to Namib-Naukluft is N$80*, and for overnighting, there are various lodges in the area to choose from. A top newish upscale choice is Sossus Dune Lodge, but if its lead rate of N$2,400** is a tad rich for your blood, other options include Desert Camp (from N$455 per person), Desert Homestead (from N$583 pp), and Betesda Lodge (from N$550, or just N$80 to camp). That’s going on your own — naturally there are also a bunch of safari operators which will bring you here on all-inclusive itineraries. More country info: Tripatini’s Namibia group, NamibiaTourism.com.na.
*approximately US$10; £6.50; €7.50; AU$11.75, NZ$15, R80
**approximately US$310; £198; €228; AU$352, NZ$448, R2,400
For Africa’s Largest Country, “The Nation’s Mom” Is A Sassy Chanteuse
January 8, 2010 at 9:21 am | In Africa, Congo, music | Leave a CommentTags: music, world music, pop music, Congo, Tshala Muana, Elizabeth Tshala Muana, Mamu Nationale, Kabila, mutuashi, Mbombo, Mobutu Sese Seko, Zaire, Central Africa
The above tune, Mbombo, is a typically bouncy, colorful, shimmying piece of ear candy from a woman who’s been one of Africa’s most popular and iconic singers of the last quarter-century. Hailing from Congo, the enormous Central African country reflagged as Zaire for three decades under dictator Mobutu Sese Seko, 51-year-old Elizabeth Tshala Muana is widely known as “Mamu Nationale” (Mom of the Nation), and has even served as an adviser to the country’s current ruler, Laurent Kabila. On the music front, this grandmother of six is also dubbed the “Queen of Mutuashi” (mutuashi is Congo’s Afro-Cuban-influenced dance music), but after more than 30 years in the biz she’s toned it down considerably from the days when on stage she’d throw in generous dollops of “almost half naked” writhing, as one Ugandan newspaper put it. Sure, Mamu’s been at it a while, but she’s obviously still got it…you go, girl!
Baobab and Palm Wine: A West African Christmas
December 23, 2009 at 1:29 pm | In Africa, Mali, Nigeria, Senegal, Sierra Leone | Leave a CommentTags: Casamance, Christmas, Dakar, Dogon, Freetown, Mali, Nigeria, Senegal, Sierra Leone, West Africa, Yoruba
In the U.K. and the West in general we usually associate Christmas with family, eating and drinking (often to excess), giving presents, Father Christmas/Santa Claus, and a Christmas tree. But how is the tradition celebrated in West Africa, a region of the world where Christianity is at its freshest and missionaries have been preaching for only about 150 years? This is a culturally diverse region of 16 countries, where Islam and Christianity dominate among thousands of tribes speaking hundreds of languages. Therefore it’s unsurprising that Christmas is celebrated in a multitude of different and colorful ways. West Africa is a very religious place; belief is central to every household whether it is for Allah, Jehovah, Jesus, or the myriad gods founds in the more animistic religions. Regardless of deity, many have been taking Christmas up as an annual celebration where prayer, family, parties and merrymaking play an important role.
All over West Africa, from Senegal to Cameroon, Nigeria to Sierra Leone, parties of different sizes and significances are held on either the 24th or 25th of December. Even in the poorer countries, an effort is made by all to carry out the tradition and join the celebrations.
Sierra Leonean celebrations, for example, include partying and ancient local traditions. Like in most countries outside Africa, pre-Christian traditions and popular costumes have been mixed with religious sermons, making yuletide in Sierra Leone quite unique. Ancient and spectacular masquerades and masking ceremonies now play a major part in Christmas celebrations in Freetown, where the majority of people participate in the colorful party. In the cities, the police musical bands and other bands play Christmas songs in the streets throughout December, and nobody escapes the yuletide feeling.
Farther north, in Senegal, 95 percent Muslim but with a minority of Christians around Dakar and Casamance in the south, the atmosphere of Christmas is still present. I remember being in Dakar a week before Christmas, and the local petrol stations and shops had paintings of Christmas trees, Father Christmas and snow on the windows and walls. Decorations were everywhere, and people were always greeting me with “Merry Christmas!” Maybe the reason for this is because of the increasing presence of televisions in the wealthier households where the most popular programs are either dubbed American or French sitcoms where Christmas is the main theme during the end of the year. I also heard that even Islam-practicing households hand out gifts on December 24th and 25th.
Nigeria, on the other hand, is a country where Christmas is one of, or even maybe the most important event of the year on the festivity calendar because of the high concentration of Christians. Taiwo, West Africa Discovery’s local expert , explains how festivities are carried out in his home country:
“Christmas is a unique festival in Nigeria unlike any other part of the world. Christmas Day is a public holiday that is celebrated mainly in the southern and eastern parts of Nigeria. Nigerians have special traditions in celebrating Christmas. Almost everyone goes to church on Christmas Day. Weeks before the day, people buy lots of hens, turkeys, goats and cows. Children hover around the beasts, taunting and staring at them. There are feverish preparations for travel, holiday, and exchange of gifts, caroling, and all manner of celebrations.
On Christmas Eve, traditional meals are prepared. In Yoruba, such meals usually include iyan (pounded yam), eba (made from manioc flour), or amala (yam-skin porridge), served with peppery stewed vegetables. People find themselves eating this same meal three to four times on that day, as they are offered it at every house they visit; and according to custom it’s considered rude to decline to eat when offered food. Other meals include rice served with chicken stew; some families would include a delicacy called moin-moin, blended black-eyed beans mixed with vegetable oil and diced liver, prawns, chicken, fish and beef. The concoction is then wrapped in large leaves and steamed.
Another tradition is that of decorating homes and churches with both woven and unwoven palm fronds, Christmas trees, and holiday lights. There are festive jubilations on the streets, the loud crack of fireworks, luminous, starry firecrackers going off, traditional masked figures parading about on stilts, and children milling about displaying their best clothes or their Christmas presents.
There are no other celebrations that compare to Christmas festivities in Nigeria, where everyone can personalize their own festival, and one family’s enthusiasm merges with others; both physically and psychologically, creating a universe of fun and bonhomie.”
Northwest of Nigeria, in southern Mali, tolerance and community feel dominate the festivities in Dogon country, where Islam, Christianity, and African religions exist side by side in most villages. It’s commonplace to see blending of traditions — for example, masquerades from an ancient death cult, traditional songs and dances, midnight masses, and a local lamb dish inspired by biblical tales.
And these are only the tip of the iceberg. West Africa comprises so much diversity that it is impossible to pinpoint every Christmas celebration in the region, however in terms of experiencing them; there is of course the possibility to visit the countries to discover these festivities first hand.
The Nigerian blog Afrol News points out, “West African rich Christmas traditions even have it in them to become a tourist attraction and should be a serious candidate for Unesco’s World Heritage list.” In my opinion, some of the tour operators in West Africa could think about incorporating these cultural elements into some of their tours, as long as the local communities benefit economically and the destination’s heritage and traditions are respected.
Staying in a Riad in One of Morocco’s Grooviest Towns: Essaouira
December 18, 2009 at 11:34 am | In Morocco | Leave a CommentTags: Essaouira, Morocco, North Africa, riads
by Max Pesling
A 2-1/2 to 3-hour drive from Marrakesh, one of Morocco’s jewels is the Atlantic port city of Essaouira, built by the Portuguese as the fortified town of Mogador in the 18th century and today a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Here in this mix of traditional and hip alternative vibe (along with some nearby beach resorts), as elsewhere in Morocco, the most atmospheric places to stay are the riads (traditional houses) converted into inns. A good example, starting at just over US$100/night, the 10-room, lilac-hued Casa Lila in the medina (old city center) is a marvelous mix of affordability and elegant design. More info: RiadsMorocco.com.
Beat the Winter Dol-Drums at Senegal’s Caro Diallo Dance Camp
November 25, 2009 at 2:40 pm | In Senegal, music | Leave a CommentTags: Abene, Africa, Caro Diallo, Caro Diallo Dance Camp, dance, music, Senegal, West Africa
Up for an adventure that none of your friends have twigged to yet? Check out French-flavored West Africa this winter, where internationally recognized Senegalese dancer Caro Diallo teaches traditional dance and drumming at his beachside camp at Abene, in Senegal’s southern Casamance region, December through February. Guests stay in comfortable if not exactly luxurious African-style huts, dine on savory local cuisine, and participate in two dance classes daily (at the camp or on the beach) and/or one daily drumming class, taught by pros from Caro’s dance company, Black Soofa. You get out and about to explore real local life and nature, too, with jaunts to villages, markets, music and dance events, festivals, and canoe trips to explore island bird sanctuaries and coastal mangroves. It’s pretty affordable, too — from $520 to $680 per person per week, including all dance and drum classes, accommodation, and three meals daily. They can also arrange airport transfers and sightseeing in Dakar and the Gambia. Moving to throbbing drum beats echoing the beating of your own heart propels your body unlike any other kind of dance, and even if you’re a rank beginner, you’ll come out of this one with not just some nifty moves but very likely some significant new self-knowledge, too. It should certainly give you something to bang on about at your next cocktail party. More info: CaroDiallo.com, genovefa@sover.net.
The Game’s Afoot: Africa Safaris 101
November 16, 2009 at 11:49 am | In Africa, Botswana, Namibia, South Africa, Tanzania, Uganda, Zambia, Zimbabwe | 1 CommentTags: Africa, Botswana, ecotourism, Kenya, Nambibia, safari, safaris, South Africa, Swahili, Tanzania, Uganda, wildlife, Zambia, Zimbabwe
Swahili for “journey,” the word “safari” originated when Arab slave and ivory traders ventured through wild country where the tribes were least sophisticated and most dangerous — and where the elephants and other trophy animals dwelled. Today, Africa’s most popular photo safari areas are its south and southeast, mainly due to wide-open ecosystems home to countless fauna and flora.
Most itineraries are organized around luxury lodges — some stone and thatch, others large tents akin to canvas suites, with several days at several lodges. For more remote destinations with few or no roads, like northern Botswana and southern Tanzania, fly-in safaris are more common, with small bush planes shuttling guests between lodges.
Many lodges offer walking as an option, but walking safaris have you on foot with an armed guard most or all of the time, sometimes walking each day from one pre-erected camp to another. Canoe trails are conducted down some of Africa’s great rivers, such as the Zambezi between Zimbabwe and Zambia with small groups of up to eight paddling in two-person canoes from one pre erected camp to another (not recommended for first-timers). Finally, mobile safaris put you in Land Rovers or Toyota Land Cruisers fitted with extra seats, long-range fuel tanks, high canopies, and large windows. Most are self-sufficient camping affairs using a mix of public and private campsites, and sometimes booking into luxury lodges along the way.
Top destinations
Botswana is rainy from late November through February, while June-October is prime game-spotting season. Mostly small, spread-out tented camps allow for low-density viewing; they’re either luxury tented camps or low-end, with visitors expected to put up their own tents and assist with chores.
One of Africa’s greatest remaining nature sanctuaries, accessed by light aircraft and four-wheel-drive vehicles, its Okavango Delta covers more than 6,000 square miles (almost 16,000 square km) of waterways, palm-filled islands, and lagoons and harbors the most animal and plant species in the southern hemisphere. Activities include game drives in open vehicles, guided island walks, and poling through shallow, reed-lined channels in makoros (dugout canoes).
In East Africa, Kenya’s and Tanzania’s numerous national parks are known for their vast array of species and especially for their annual wildebeest migration. Following the Serengeti’s April/May rains, wildebeest move into its western corridor toward the Mara River, generally staying in Kenya’s Maasai Mara late July to early November before returning to the Serengeti. Rainy seasons are April through early June and November/early December.
National parks and reserves cover over eight percent of Kenya. The “Big Five” (elephant, lion, rhino, buffalo, leopard) can be seen in Masai Mara and Amboseli national parks, amongst others; remote Samburu holds unique species like Beisa oryx, reticulated giraffe, Somali ostrich, gerenuk, and Grevy’s zebra; viewing’s best July through September and January through March. Masai Mara’s undulating hills and rolling grasslands support huge animal populations, including elephants, cheetahs, leopards, Cape buffalos, giraffe, gazelles, Topi antelope, and Africa’s largest lion population; in the Mara River there are also hundreds of hippos and crocodiles.
Top among Tanzania’s extraordinary wildlife and grand landscapes are the year-round snow-capped peaks of majestic Mount Kilimanjaro; mighty, mystical Ngorongoro Crater; and the Serengeti National Park, with more than three million large animals spread across vast.
Semi-desert and one of Africa’s least populated countries, Namibia is all about unspoiled nature, rich wildlife, abundant sunshine, and striking beauty, with a short rainy season in November and the main rains in February and March.
Etosha National Park is mainly saline desert, savannah, and woodlands; its main feature is the Etosha Pan, a shallow depression stretching some 6,133 square kilometers (about 2,400 square miles). This white “place of dry water” is very different from Africa’s other reserves; some days it’s a shimmering sheet of mirages on which the animals appear to be floating on air. Its more than 110 mammal species include rare endangered species such as black rhino and black-faced impala, the latter unique to northwestern Namibia and southwestern Angola.
In South Africa’s top wildlife destination, Kruger National Park, annual rains fall late November through February; the rest of the year’s mostly dry. Game-spotting’s good almost year round, but July and August are considered low season, so fewer tourists come to the lodges and you can score some great deals. In actual fact, it’s still a superb time for game viewing.
Many luxury lodges line Kruger’s western boundary in three main areas: Sabi Sands, Timbivati, and Manyaleti. Sabi Sands is best for year-round game; a two- or three-night stay should yield “Big Five” sightings at the very least.
Uganda is where the East African savannah meets the West African jungle, and the only place in Africa where you can watch lions prowling the open plains in the morning, track wild chimpanzees through the rainforest in the afternoon, then the next day navigate tropical channels teeming with hippo and crocodiles before setting off into misty mountains to spend time with Uganda’s stars: its highly endangered mountain gorillas. Seeing these gentle giants up close is as humbling as it is thrilling, particularly when one realizes that there are a mere 700 or so left in the wild, found only in Bwindi National Park and the Virunga Mountains. Heavy rains come March through May, then lighter rains in October/November.
Bigger than Texas, Zambia has big, unspoiled national parks with tremendous game viewing, especially on walking safaris. It’s rainy, though, so the season’s fairly short; the best time is June through October, but April/May and November/December also offer decent wildlife spotting.
The 3,500-square-mile (9,000-square-kilometer) Luangwa Valley is one of Africa’s last unspoiled wilderness areas and one of its finest wildlife sanctuaries. The Luangwa River meanders through, and oxbow lagoons, woodlands, and plains harbor huge animal populations, including elephants, buffalos, lions, giraffes, and hippos; Luangwa’s especially well known for leopards.
Finally, Zimbabwe may be a disaster politically and economically, but it’s still top-notch and safe for game viewing, with unspoiled wilderness and outstanding variety of wildlife, including endangered species which once roamed all Africa. Dry except during for late November through February; game spotting is good for most of the year, and peak season runs June through October.
Hwange National Park includes vast open palm-fringed plains, acacia woodlands, and mopane forests with elephants, buffalos, sables, roans, giraffe, wildebeests, impalas, and sometimes oryx. It’s also tops for predators — lions, leopards, wild dog, and cheetah, along with the smaller African wildcats, serval, honey badger, civits, and hyenas.
More info: Tripatini’s Africa Safaris group.
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